ca 1900
Of fine tanned hide and largely sinew sewn.
Previously belonging to Princess Chinquilla (1863-1938), of hide construction with geometric beaded bands across the shoulder, chest, skirt and just above the hem, additionally adorned with beaded triangular flaps and beaded hide drops, the sleeves terminating in lengthy fringe.
length 52in
Princess Chinquilla, born Mary C. Newell, publicly identified as Cheyenne throughout her career as a vaudeville performer and activist, but her ancestry was formally questioned in 1926 by Gertrude Simmons Bonnin (Zitkala‑Ša), one of the era’s leading Native political figures. Bonnin launched a discreet investigation after discovering Chinquilla’s association with Red Fox James, a man already suspected of falsely claiming Native identity. The surviving correspondence shows Bonnin feared Chinquilla might also be misrepresenting herself, though no definitive proof was ever produced. The controversy ultimately reflects the period’s intense concern over authenticity and representation within Native political movements, rather than a clear resolution about who Chinquilla truly was.
Footnotes
Obit. NYT Oct 29, 1938
MRS. MARY NEWELL, LEADER OF INDIANS; Cheyenne Known as Princess Chinquilla, Once in Buffalo Bill Show, Dies in Queens LECTURER AND ORGANIZER Member of First Group of Her Race to Be Sent to School at Carlisle for Study
Mrs. Mary C. Newell, a fullblooded Cheyenne Indian, who was known professionally as Princess Chinquilla, died in her home, 146-12 157th Street, Idlewild, Queens, on Thursday night. She was the leader of the movement that resulted in the establishment as a recognized holiday of Indian Day a few years ago. Her home had been the gathering place of members of an Indian society on that day.
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With a fabric Traphagen School label on the interior neck inscribed: AI-23-102a American Indian woman's costume. Purchased from Mr. A.B. Newell and belonged to his wife Princess Chinquilla. Dec. 1938. Traphagen School
Mary C. Newell, known as "Princess Chinquilla," was a vaudeville performer, tightwire walker, activist and lecturer on Native subjects. While there has been some historical question of Newell's true ethnic identity, she was generally lauded for co-founding the American Indian Club, a fraternal organization in New York for Native Americans, as well as her work with the American Indian Association which assisted Native peoples working in New York find housing.
Provenance
Mrs. Mary C. Newell, i.e. "Princess Chinquilla," by descent to her husband Abraham Bliss Newell
ex-Traphagen School Collection
Condition:
Very Good
Tribe:
Cheyenne
Year Range:
1900 - 1925
Region:
MidWest to Southeast US
Dimensions:
52 in
